White horses, flamingoes and ancient fortresses

Frid 8 our destination is an overnight stopover in Montagnac but we make a detour on the way to St Maries de la Mer - a sea-side village at the heart of the Carmargue. The Camargue is a huge triangle-shaped alluvial plain covering around 750 km2 and is famous for its swamps, salt marshes, flamingoes, black long-horned bulls, and white horses. This is the land of cowboys (known as Gardians), gypsies, flamenco music,and bull fights (but not to the death - thankfully these beautiful beasts live to see another day).

It is a stunning landscape and we pass many manades (ranches) where both Camargue horses and bulls are bred. By the roadside, on these ranches, are covered stalls where these horses stand in the shade waiting for people to hire them - many are saddled ready to go while others are just waiting patiently  amongst the flies and heat for their turn.

We take a stroll around the town - the sun, clear blue skies and Spanish style buildings makes this town glaringly bright and sunglasses are a must. The shops are highly commercialised and here you can find traditional Camargue herdsman-style saddles, western shirts in bright Provencal fabrics, and boots - beautiful western boots with elaborate designs and in all styles and colours.

St Maries de la Mer edges the Mediteranean - the sea is a safe swimming haven for families and the beaches are ideal for sun lovers of all shapes and sizes. We find a little place by the rocks to eat our lunch.

While we see many horses and bulls, we only catch a glimpse of a few flamingoes - their pink-ness atop tall spindly legs just catching our eye as we drive by. There are many other birds in the Camargue and we see grey and white herons by the dozens.

The Carmargue is a stunning area and one that justifies more time spent exploring its wildlife, beaches and horses -  perhaps next time.

Our hotel for the night is just on the outskirts of Montagnac and we discover it by chance and very nearly drive past. We are very excited to find it has a swimming pool - our first in France - pure watery, cool bliss!

Our travels include many different roads - 'A' roads (motorways - 130 kmph), 'D' roads (secondary roads between provincial towns - 90 kmph) and little back roads/lanes (with no markings and sometimes only single laned - 50-70kmph). To avoid paying tolls, we often take the 'D' and smaller roads - we get to see more of the countryside and experience the villages this way.

Our satellite navigator (Tom Tom) tells us what speeds we need to keep to. It also helps us find our way out of villages and towns - as our sense of direction is still in confusion (and probably won't come right until we are back in NZ).

Edging these smaller roads are colourful wild flowers - poppies, sweetpeas, spindly scabiosa (pincushion) and other pretty wildflowers/weeds I don't recognise.

Deep ditches line the roads and sometimes tall trees come right up to the edge of the tarmac like tall soldiers creating a guard of honour. We are surprised and more than pleased to find that all the roads (even the little lanes) are sealed.

Sat 9 we are on our way to Carcassonne - we only know that it is a medieval walled city known as la Cite, so we are unprepared for the sight that comes into view as we drive up to a massive stone fortress, complete with towers and turrets. We quickly discover that la Cite is a popular tourist site as we join hundreds of others trying to find car parks.

We follow the crowds across a drawbridge and through the gates of the fortress. It is 30 deg + and we find ourselves in a hot, narrow street  crammed with people and shops. La Cite is very commercialised and its cobblestoned streets and medieval buildings are filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and places to stay.








We find our accommodation for the next three nights - the YHA. Our hosts Michel and Michelle greet us and immediately make us feel welcome - Michel with his wonderful sense of humour (and also speaks English fluently).



The YHA is right in the middle of la Cite and has modern facilities. We are lucky enough to share a room instead of being separated in single sex dorms (even luckier that we don't have to share it anyone else).


Each morning we enjoy breakfast in the courtyard. The YHA turns out to be a wonderful retreat from the busy-ness of la Cite and we enjoy meeting other travellers from around the world.

In the evening, we find a restaurant for a drink and meal. There is a bit of a commotion around the tables and we are suddenly approached by a young man dressed in fish nets, skirt and wig who wants us to buy two beers for 4 euros - we are happy to oblige but negotiate for a beer and wine for 3 euros instead. We discover he is about to be married and is on a night out with his mates and has to complete a series of challenges.

Each evening, we explore the shops and the fortress, taking in the atmosphere. One night a group in the courtyard next door practices a medieval play, another night the lively tune of a saxophone, from a distant restaurant, drifts through our window as we lie awake in our beds - too hot for sleep, and yet another night we enjoy the rhythmic beating of kettle drums, played by two young girls, as we walk in the late evening around the outer walls of the fortress.

Sun 10 we decide to take a short cruise on the Canal de Midi, to give us a bit of an insight of what our own canal journey will involve. We travel 15 km all up and through two locks twice. The Canal du Midi is 240 km long and is lined with hundreds of Plane-trees or Cypress to stabilise its banks. It's a very slow, pleasant way to travel and we are looking forward to our own canal adventure.

Mon 11 we decide to head out of town and drive  into the hills of Brousses to visit le Moulin la Papier - one of the last operating paper mills in France. We park amongst the trees and walk along the road to the mill. The landscape reminds us so much of home as the forest around us is very similar to the West Coast forests back home. Down a well-trodden path we hear water and then suddenly come across an old stone building beside a stream - we arrive at the paper mill.

Our young guide speaks French but periodically she translates into English for us - we also get the idea of how it all works through viewing the drawings and machinery. The history of paper making is interesting and was originally invented by the Chinese.

Back in Carcassonne, it is another hot afternoon and we just have time for a quick lunch before making our way to the Grand Tournot de Chevalerie - an historical show that features jousting and challenges between the knights and their horses.

It's fun, fast and exciting, especially when you are right up front with your camera. I get a few good shots close to the action just a metre or so from the horses' hooves and a good spattering of sand down my neck but it's worth it.

Challenges include jousting and showing off their skills by slicing apples with their swords at a gallop, picking up  rings with long wooden spears, and scooping up flags off the ground without getting off their horses.  


The knights finished their challenges with a duel (one or two swords) to determine the winner!




 

We enjoy our time in this ancient city but it's time to move on and leave the fortress to all the other tourists who will each discover its secrets and beauty in their own way!


kiwis2go are loaded2go again!