Sun, sea and blue skies...

 Tues 28 we catch a TGV high speed train from Paris to Nice, covering some 950km in 5 hours and 33 mins, with speeds at times up to 320 kph. I love traveling on the train and this is the 'best of the best' of trains for me. It's really fast, and smooth, too! We are lucky to score our seats on the top level (doubledecker train) where we enjoy the countryside views from a better angle.

The seating is spacious and comfy with foot rests so we sit back and enjoy the ride. We speed past hectares of crops, vineyards and the small villages of Burgundy; through tunnels and across viaducts; our ears pop as we climb to higher altitudes and skim over the plains and hills of the Rhone Alps to sunny Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur on the south coast of France.



Villefranche-sur-mer


Nice is hot and busy when we arrive but we get a taxi instantly and soon we are on our way to Villefranche-sur-mer, just two bays and twenty minutes away. Luckily, our driver speaks some English so we converse along the way.

Here in Villefranche, we see all the stunning colours and images we've come to expect - those depicted in all the books and magazines. Ochre coloured buildings with brightly painted shutters and doors, peeling paint and orange tile roofs - all framed by an azure sea and deep blue sky - this really is the French Riveria.


We can hardly believe we are here experiencing all this - our travels keep us black and blue as we pinch ourselves along the way to make sure it is truly real.

Villafranche is picturesque with steep hillsides dotted with houses perched one above the other, and the bay, which hosts a variety of motor boats, sail and super yachts of all shapes and sizes.

Our hotel is not new, in fact a little shabby in places, but it is welcoming, clean, comfortable, has air conditioning and excellent service. We are happy enough as it has all the French character and charm we could wish for.

We take a stroll through the Old Village just below the hotel and experience our first real French meal. Our waiter is a young and, well, rather gorgeous Frenchman, and anything he suggests - wine, water, bread, quiche and mozarella appetisers - I, apparently (according to Max) eagerly accept. And why not! Our main dish is Tartare de Filet de Boeuf (Steak Tartare) with a side salad and a few large chips. The steak is raw, minced and infused with herbs and strong cheese. It is delicious and very rich in flavour.

Weds 29 & Thurs 30 we spend our time exploring this delightful little village - we walk up steep stone steps and through narrow alleyways, and discover St Michael's Church hidden amongst the houses. It is a cool haven inside and smells of oldness and incense.

We find a medieval vaulted covered street, Rue Obscure, where people used to take shelter in World War II. We drift in and out of little gift and clothing shops - we come across two that sell only white clothing - for white is the essential dress code of the Cote d'Azur - it's cool and fresh looking.

We stroll around the Citadel - an old fortress beside the town and built between 1554 and 1557 - from here there are delightful views across the bay.

We wander around the gardens, visit an exhibition of pottery figurines and castles portraying historical events and life. The Citadel now houses the Town Hall, a convention centre, three museums and an open air theatre.

Down by the waterfront, I visit St Peter's Chapel, built in the 1750s in a baroque Italian-style. It is beautifully decorated with line drawings and trompe l'oeil by Jean Cocteau - a writer, artist and film-maker.

Each morning we start with a delightful breakfast at the hotel - we choose from toast, fruit, cereal, croissants, fruit pastries, boiled eggs and cheese - a good breakfast sets us up for most of the day and we often replace lunch with just a coffee. It's a good time to meet other travellers too - some from France, some from England and others from Norway.

The days start with a haze across the bay, turning all the rich colours into soft muted tones. We make use of these times to visit the farmers market by the park for fruit and vegetables, and to the supermarche to stock up on drinking water and other essentials.

We learn to have some inside time as the heat rises during the middle of the day. The streets become deserted then as all the shops close for 2-4 hours, re-opening later in the day for the evening trade.

Each day we visit the beach and spend time cooling off in the sea - a delightful contrast to the busy-ness of Paris. The beach is dotted with umbrellas and people. Heads bob in the sea and women (young and old) sunbathe topless on the beach while children catch little fish in the shallow waters nearby. Yachts dance to a soft breeze across the harbour and their masts sway in time to the rolling tides. Yes, life on the Riviera is very relaxed.

The bay is deep enough for cruise ships, up to 95 metres, to anchor off shore. And because of this depth, Villefranche is the most visited cruise ship port of call in France. An Israeli cruise ship anchors in the bay during our stay and we watch a a small boat ferry people to the little harbour. The restaurants all jump into action and a mini market appears along the waterfront. Bags, clothes, jewellery, artwork, soap, linen and hats are all on offer.

One evening while out on a walk, we are waved into a private carpark above the bay by a stranger to share his evening view. He is of English origin but his accent is a mix of many languages from his transcient childhood. He is an author who writes under the name of Nicholas Anderson NOC. His book is about the SIS and MI6 and about to become a movie. He is friendly and we enjoy our conversation with him.

Another evening we buy pizzas and a bottle of wine. Everywhere we go we hear the harping sirens of the police.

We believe they are in pursuit of two kiwis last seen in the park eating pizzas out of zee box, drinking wine out of zee little plastic cups and feeding zee pigeons. I wonder who they are...!