Seduced by Paris...

　Bonjour! from the romantic city of Paris... We are in love. She is beautiful, she is old, she is noisy, she is chaotic and she is, well, a little dirty and smelly but she is the one and only Paris!

Thurs 24 we travel by bus from Heswall to Liverpool, then train to London and Eurostar to France.

From the moment we step off the Eurostar onto French soil, we know we are in a land of difference - everyone speaks French (of course), cars drive on the wrong side of the street and we wait for almost an hour (with at least 80 others) for a taxi to take us to a door on Rue du Renard.

"Oui...11, this eez yours" the taxi driver tells us when we ask if he is sure. We stare at the door, with an 'I love Paris' souvenir shop beside it, and hope he is right. Of course he is right and once inside that door we leave the noise and heat behind, find a tiny lift to squeeze into and sail up to our little apartment.

It is perfect, with two big windows that open inwards, and overlooks a lush courtyard and rooftops beyond. The bed is up a set of narrow stairs and looks over the dining and living area. We are quite happy.

After we unpack we step out our door again in search of food. The noise hits us straight away - Rue du Renard is a main thoroughfare - motorcycles, bicycles and cars everywhere - horns tooting, police sirens harping their way through the traffic, and people... lots of people. There are sales in nearly every shop we pass! And shoes for Africa - sooo many shoe shops... all with sales!

"Look to your left first," Max yells at me as he pulls me out of the way of a cyclist. We don't find a supermarket this time and settle on a McDonalds wrap for our dinner. We venture out later for an evening walk and discover a different Paris - a less hurried city and, as we will soon discover, with a very vibrant night life.

Friday 25 we throw open our windows to the muffled sound of the city in the background, sip on our coffees and munch on muffins and croisants for breakfast. Then suddenly from a neighbours window, a beautiful piece of classical piano music floats across the courtyard - such a delightful way to begin our first day in France!

We find a 'supermarche' to get the supplies we need for the next four days. It's funny how quickly you learn to recognise words when you need to: 'soldes' - sales; 'sortie' - exit; 'pharmacie' - chemist; 'toilette' - very important, and never one nearby when you need it.

We catch an open-top bus and sit back for a 2 & 1/2 hour tour of all the main sites which include Tour Eiffel, Champ de Mars, Musee du Louvre, Notre Dame, Opera, Champs Elysees-Estoile, Grand Palais and Trocadero. The tour is commentated and comes complete with beautiful relaxing orchestral music - such a contrast with it playing in your ears while the city is dancing all around you! The tour helps us decide on our 'must-do' list and we soon discover that everything is really within walking distance.

We also get a taste of the chaotic driving rules in France when we find our bus stuck in a traffic jam - along with other buses, cars, motorbikes and trucks - for at least 20-30 minutes. Horns toot impatiently and we watch drivers gesture wildly as they try to negotiate with each other to get traffic moving.

After over two hours of listening, watching, and motor fumes we are pleased to get off the bus and make our way to Notre Dame. It's detailed gothic architecture gives the church an air of mystery and reminds us of the childhood story of the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

The Louvre Museum is next on our list and because it is 4pm and a Friday - the museum is open till 9.30pm - we don't have to queue for long outside the pyramid.

We spend over two hours in this magnificant museum and join crowds of people as they gather around the Mona Lisa to view and jostle with them to take photos - we get some good pics too.



The Fi-Mona Lisa



We wander through great halls with huges masterpieces painted by famous artists and admire the detailed life-like marble sculptures.

In the evening, we amble along nearby side streets in the Marais district (central Paris has 12 distinct districts). We discover little cafes, bars and restaurants all lit up and humming with people and music. We discover an area where same sex bars are prolific - one bar so popular that people are spilling out onto the footpaths and into the street - like bees gathering around a honey pot. Here in Paris, it doesn't matter who you are - there is something for everyone!

It doesn't get dark until 11ish pm and with the heat, it's easy to stay up until at least midnight.

Saturday 25 we are woken by late night/early morning party revellers at 5am - still having a good time it seems. We have a late start to our day and set off on a shopping/sightseeing expedition through the streets of the les Halles district.

The French are passionate about their food and we find all kinds of delights in shops lining narrow streets.

Fruit and vegetables attractively stacked in boxes; pastries, pies and tarts arranged tantalisingly in windows; mouthwatering stacks of cheese on display; glazed chickens turning on spit roasters; and the delicious aroma of coffee and freshly baked bread. Everything your taste buds could possibly wish for.

We finally order our first coffee, 'deux cafe creme, si'l vous plait' we learn to say. It is delicious and while we sip our coffee outside the cafe, we watch a situation unfold.

An old man in a wheelchair (who we see earlier supping on a beer) tries to cross the road when his wheel comes off - he falls out onto the street. A passerby tries to help, when suddenly the police pull up.

There is a commotion as they try to sort the old man out. People stop to stare and shake their heads. In the end, the police take him further along the street and just leave him there, back in his wheelchair, wheel in his hand gesturing and calling to anyone who will listen. It appears that this is a regular occurance and one to get sympathy and money from people!

It is not our first experience with beggars and homeless people, we have passed many lying in gutters, on park benches and in doorways. Some have little plates made from tin cans to sell, others hold out cups for money, while others pretend to be deaf and want you to sign a paper and then will ask for money.

Some have dogs (and puppies) while another has a cat. It doesn't matter if you are rich or poor, an animal will love you unconditionally. We come across some belongings on a street corner and sitting on a shabby cushion is a little tabby cat complete with harness - along comes its owner, dressed in rags, and the look of love the little cat gives her is priceless. While these animals are used also for pity, they are also devoted companions and security for these people.

Coming from New Zealand, it is very sad to see life like this.

We continue our walk to la Madeleine, a very impressive Greek temple-style church, built in 1764, with 52 spectacular Corinthian columns surrounding the outside walls.

Further along the street, and after a 30 minute wait for a toilet, we walk through Jardin des Tuileries (gardens that run from the Champs- Elysees and Arc de Triomphe to the Louvre) and finally find a shady place to sit by the Notre Dame.

We listen to a  young couple playing music and singing for a donation - it is all quite pleasant and relaxing.

Our late evening walk takes us right into the path of a Gay Mardi-gras. The street is jam-packed with people - mostly male - maybe up to 1000. We get caught up in the atmosphere - the beat of the drums, the dancing, the heat, and the craziness of it all.

My camera is in my hand and all I want to do is catch up with the procession and capture the guys dressed up in bizarre costumes, huge blonde wigs and feathers (this is all I can see above the crowd as the procession throngs its way along the narrow street).

I push my way through hot sweaty bodies (oh la la), 'excusez-moi, excusez-moi' - they let me through and Max tries hard to keep up. The guys are happy to let me through but Max has to push his way to keep up. There's no way out now but to go forward - we are literally surrounded by hundreds - packed in like sardines.

We finally catch up and I am rewarded with a few pics. Max drags me away from the crowd - he's had quite enough excitement for one evening!

Sunday 26 Happy birthday, Jared! We set out early to Montmartre, an old village that was originally a mecca for artists and writers. Its reputation was for its loose bohemian lifestyle and its exuberant cabarets and bordellos. The Moulin Rouge still remains as does a street full of sex shops and bars.

The hill of Montmartre (the Butte) has winding cobble streets, tiny squares, small terraces, and long stone stairways.

At the top is the beautiful Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) church, with its spectacular Romano-Byzantine basilica.

To view the Butte, we join a walking tour (Discover Walks) which is led by two born and bred Parisians. The two girls give us detailed information as we climb the hill along with animated stories about characters that lived on the Butte, all with beautiful French accents that make our experience all the more enjoyable. It is a fun way to visit the area!



 Hot air blows up my dress from vents in the street and Max touches Valida's (a famous French singer) breast for good luck as many others have done so before him.

We are warned about pickpocket thieves, deaf beggars, and con-artists who overcharge. On our way down we wind our way back down, we stop to view the legal portrait artists at work - their models sit quietly as they portray their likeness onto blank canvases - some are exceptionally good.

We stop for a long lunch and then make our way back towards the apartment. Along the way, we witness a stunning display of car parking. A small car is squeezed into a tiny carpark after its driver shunts the cars in front and behind to make room for it. the driver leaps out with a stepladder and a big camera and races off down the street.

We discover his destination is the Premier of Transformers III. We decide to join the large group of people waiting outside the theatre, in hope that we too might see one of the big stars from the movie. Max gets given a toy transformer, much to his delight. After a 1 & 1/2 hour wait, we finally get to see who it is.

'Patreek, Patreek' they all shout and out of the car steps Patrick Dempsey (Mr McDreamy himself). I squeeze my way in and get my best shot - might be worth thousands one day!

Finally, we head home for wine and nibbles. What a day!

Monday 27 and our last full day in Paris. What better way to finish our stay than with a morning cruising the sales and then the afternoon on the river Seine. It is incredibly hot - the temperatures rise to an unbelieveable 40 deg. Even the Parisians find it too hot.

We finally meet our first New Zealanders (in a bike shop) while abroad and later a professional UK caddy - it's nice to converse in English with others.

We add our 'lovelock' (a padlock with our names on it) to the Pont des Arts bridge, along with hundreds of others, as a symbol of our 'undying love in the heart of eternally romantic Paris'.

We finish our day in the St Germain district with an ice-cold rum and coke then finally make our way to the apartment to pack.

It's been a stunning few days but we are ready to leave the noise and excitement of Paris and move on to experience another part of France. Côte d'Azur, the French Riviera, here we come! 　

　

Exploring the Wirral...1

Once again Christchurch has been hit by yet another earthquake - this one was a good solid jolt (a 5.4) and centred near Halswell and this time our little house in Hornby has suffered some minor damage. Family and friends are ok but their nerves are fraught and it's a scary time for them all. We were sent the following link by a friend following last week's quake - it's perhaps just little things like this that help bring a smile at such a devastating time. Take a look...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hlfLjz0PUDU

Downtown Liverpool when it finally comes to life

Thurs 16 we catch a doubledecker to Liverpool. We are in the city centre by 9am - the shops are open but streets are all but deserted - a little old lady sitting up a side street is already out with her accordian (we discover her later, still about at midday) - her music bounces off buildings and reaches our cold ears. The morning is grey and the wind biting. We left our hats behind!

The Albert Docks is home to a number of cafes,
restaurants, gift shops and art galleries

Coffee beckons and we make our way to the Docks to browse a few shops for morning tea and to wait for the Mersyside Maritime Museum to open at 10am.

An amazing model of an oil rig

Starting on the third floor, we are captured by the International Slavery exhibition and learn about the struggles, the bravery, and the cruelty people endured in the past. We shake our heads and grimace as we view the heavy metal chains, collars and braces that slaves were forced to wear. We also feel sad to read about the modern slavery still happening in the world today.

On the second floor, we view huge models of ships and read the tragic stories of the Titanic, Lusitania, and the Empress - each with a strong link to Liverpool.



Down on the first floor, we view a photography exhibition called Living Apart by Ian Berry (this is my favourite). The stunning black and white images were taken over a 40-year period and graphically captures the story of apartheid in South Africa. This amazing documentry-style photography follows the struggle of a nation and includes the Sharpeville massacre in 1960 and follows through to the collapse of apartheid and Nelson Mandela's historical journey to presidency.

St George's Hall, built in 1854 is the first European
 offering of neoclassical architecture

Liverpool is home to the Beatles and Beatle-mania is everywhere - you can even take a L50 taxi-tour to where they were discovered, played, and lived. We decide to keep the Beatle-thing for another visit - we quite like Liverpool. Instead, we enjoy the sun when it finally comes out and the crowds that now fill the streets. There are plenty of sales and we splash out - I buy a pretty little floral dress for France and Max a pair of trendy canvas sneakers. We don't find the clothing any cheaper here - in fact, very similar to NZ so we don't get too carried away.

Taking lunch out of the wind

Sun 19 we jump on bikes loaned to us by Grant and Maddie and head off on the Wirral Way - a rail trail section from Heswall to West Kirby out on the penisular. The sun comes out for the day and we have a great ride - past fields, under and over bridges. In some parts, the trail is edged heavily with unruly hedgerows, where blackberry and stinging nettle grow with wild abandon. Unfortunately, it is Max's turn to get stung on bare legs.

Tides out - walking the wall took half an hour

At West Kirby, we watch windsurfers on the Marine Lake (an area walled off from the tidal sea that keeps the water in) and then find a sheltered spot to eat our picnic lunch. We take a walk around the wall of the lake, conscious of the tide coming in (it sometimes comes over the top of the path), and then pedal our way home.

The craft centre is a relaxing shopping centre

Mon 20 the sun is out so we are off firstly to Brimstage Hall Craft Centre - a lovely collection of farmyard buildings converted into art, craft, antique and restaurant shops.

A long and fragrant rose garden leads to the
Lady Lever Art Gallery

Port Sunlight is our destination and there we discover a delightful village beautifully maintained with an interesting history that most people can relate to. Port Sunlight is where Sunlight Soap was created by William Lever.

William Lever was a man ahead of his time at six he met his future wife at their primary school, she was seven. He took over his father's wholesale grocery business and at 33 contemplated retiring.


A number of different architects were used
to design the houses in Port Sunlight



Instead with his brother they created Lever brothers making the worlds first soap with palm oil (Sunlight Soap). From the success of the product he developed a purpose-built town called Port Sunlight with architectually designed workers' houses - each with a well-equipped kitchen and separate bathroom. With the average workers' homes in the early 1900s costing L60 pounds, Lever's houses cost L250 each.

Christ Church, built by Lever for his workers

William Lever also pioneered the eight hour day with wages above the normal rates plus one week's holiday pay. Employees and their families were provided with healthcare, schools, evening dances and concerts. He also took them on holiday in England and overseas - he had 2600 employees at the time.
After the death of his wife, he built an amazing gallery as a memorial andfilled it with statues, furniture and art work. Being one of the world's first philanthropists many benefited from his wealth.

He was recognised by royalty and world leaders and died in 1925 as Lord Leverhulme. His company became Unilevers in 1988 and continues today with brands such as Surf, Persil, Pears, and of course, the one that started it all, Sunlight Soap.

We view an amazing collection of
Wedgewood

We enjoy a visit to the museum and church, a walk around the village, a meander through the magnificant Lady Lever Art Gallery and a picnic lunch by the rose garden.

31 years married!

It's a great way to spend our 31st wedding anniversary and we top of the day with a meal out in the company of Grant and Maddie.








Heswall has been a great place to catch our breath and we've enjoyed exploring the area on foot, bicycle and by car - thanks to our good friends' generosity.

The next time we blog, we will be in France so until then - au revoir!

Ramblings of the animal kind...

I find the wildlife here absolutely fascinating as it's so accessible, up-close and personal.

I've also become addicted to a BBC programme called Springwatch (it also has a sister series called Autumnwatch). It reminds me a little of Top Gear and with up to four presenters, it's chatty, informative, educational, entertaining and with its hidden webcams offers some stunning wildlife imagery. You can follow the webcams at http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/uk/

I am continuously coming across various animal rescue and welfare groups - there are hundreds all doing their bit to help.

And it's not just companion and farm animals that are being helped - there are groups that also help the diverse wildlife that live here and other groups that work to protect the natural environments these animals live in.

Without these species specific welfare groups such as the Parkgate Pony Sanctuary close to Heswall, the Wildlife trust and so many other groups, organisations like the RSPCA would struggle to contend with the vast numbers that need help. Charity shops are prolific in all the towns and cities - whether for animals or people - they are excellent sources of fundraising for these organisations.

Below are a few snippets of stories I've come across recently and some observations:

Bunnies hop to it in the showjumping arena

It must surely take off in NZ soon
and help boost adoption numbers too!

This is one of the latest crazes to come into Britain and originated in Sweden. Rabbits are apparently easily trained and there are websites dedicated to latest this sport. Check out these sites: http://www.rabbithopping-usa.webs.com/ & http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE9OXATfF0o&feature=BFa&list=PLE679A790FA3477FD&index=2

Ducks suffer at the wheels of hit and run drivers

This mandarin duck is a regular visitor

to the Virginia Water garden

There has been an outcry from animal welfare organisations around the UK over drivers deliberately running over ducks and their ducklings - not only are they a target on the road but ducklings are also being stamped on and pelted with objects. Sadly, it doesn't matter where you go in the world, animals and birds suffer at the hands of some human beings.

It seems to me that education of the care, needs and rights of animals need to take highest priority in communities and schools.

While we haven't come across any ducks, we have had to slow down for a couple of large pheasants sauntering across the road. Apparently, they are well known for being a bit simple-minded and are solid enough to create quite a bit of damage to the front of your car. But all that aside, they are beautiful birds.

Woolley wigs for pigs?

A community newspaper featured an animal farm that is home to a large number of rare and unusual breeds. The story announces the farm's latest new residents - Mangalitsa pigs (pronounced MON-goleet-sa). These gorgeous curly-haired hogs look like pigs crossed with sheep. They were first bred in 1833 in Hungary. They grow a hairy fleece that looks like wool and were initially bred as a lard pig but are now classed as a rare breed.

I think they would fit perfectly into our New Zealand climate with their sheepish good looks. I want one!

Dry season affects birds
With the warmest spring in 250 years, the UK has been suffering a dry season with low rainfall. And it's because of the dry ground that worms burrow deeper into the soil thereby creating a gap in the food chain for blackbirds and other birds that dine on these slithery creatures. Blackbirds, when short of food, are known to raid other nests for tiny fledglings to feed to their own babies. People are encouraged to put food out for the birds to help them through a tough season.

I have noticed that feeding birds is a popular past-time in the UK with garden shops catering with all kinds of birds boxes, feeders and food.

As the crows fly

A jacdaw at the Virginia Water garden

There are several different types of crow that live here - choughs, jackdaws, magpies, rooks, carrion and hooded crows, and the big grand-daddy of them all - the raven. In late afternoon/early evening, fields of crows can be seen as hundreds of black specks on green canvases. They are everywhere and it's the tell-tale raucous cry that you often hear aloft that alerts you to their presence.

Someone once told me that the sound of a crow's call was that of a lost soul - a mournful sound. Now that I have heard and seen so many and watched their antics, I see them as cheeky, bold birds full of self confidence with an abrasive call. Crows are known for their excellent memories and apparently will not forget a face (human) and also bear grudges so it doesn't pay to cross them.

The raven is an extremely intelligent, playful bird and makes a good companion if you have the time and years to commit to them. We enjoyed experiencing this beautiful big bird at close quarters at the Tower of London.

Hedgerows for hedgehogs

According to the British Hedgehog Preservation Society, diminshing hedgerows, in the countryside and in suburban gardens, is a key reason for the decline of these prickly little hogs. A lack of insects that usually live in these bushy environments means the the hedgehog have fewer food supply options. Being eaten by badgers and run over by cars are other threats to this harmless little creature.

I can't say that we have found a lack of hedgerows here as every country back, side or main road is usually lined with them, making it difficult to see ahead around the bends. Every now and then, though, you do get a peek through an open gateway of the beautiful countryside beyond.

Pretty in their tuxedos

NZ Magpie

Apart from their similar striking black and white plumage, magpies in the UK are quite different to the magpies of New Zealand. NZ magpies, with their flute-like call, originally came from Australia in the mid 1800s. They are stockier birds with either black, white or mixed back feathers, short tails, and crow-like heads. UK magpies are slender with long tails, iridescent blue, green and purple wings and bold white chests and bellies.







UK Magpie



One for sorrow, two for joy;
Three for a girl, four for a boy;
Five for silver, six for gold;
Seven for a secret, never to be told;
Eight for a wish, nine for a kiss;
Ten for a bird that's best to miss.

Cute little pied pipers, aren't they?

In my research I have also discovered the Magpie Duck, which originated in Wales!








Cats with thumbs

An ad I am enjoying over here advertising milk can be seen here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6CcxJQq1x8











And did I mention skirrels?




This little fellow was happy to be approached and
photographed in Bournemouth



I cannot help but take any opportunity I can to capture these cute little creatures on camera. In some built up areas, parks, etc the grey squirrel is quite bold and will even come towards you looking for a handout of food. I've heard that greys' kill the red squirrels but my research tells me that they actually co-exist well together and that the reds suffered from a parapox virus, which is similar to myxomatosis in rabbits, in the early 1900s that destroyed many colonies. They were also extensively hunted around this time too, so it's not the greys' fault they are in decline.

The reds tend to stay high in the trees whereas the greys are happy to forage on the ground. They are a funny sight to see (if you're lucky) leaping about on the ground with their big fluffy tails flowing behind them. Many people while feeding the birds, usually without intention, end up feeding the squirrels too as these athletic little animals happily leap from backyard to backyard to find the best meal on offer.